The Scene:
“Piccolo” means small — no kidding! With only 20 some seats in the front dining room, and a little room in the back that seats 8, Piccolo is the coziest spot in town. The kitchen is molto, molto piccolo — which is why it is totally amazing that Doug Flicker is kicking out some ethereally delicious food. The room is warm and simple, with a mirror and an oversized painting on one wall. Opening night was packed. My wife and I, along with Jack Riebel–Dakota (oh yeah!)–and his fiance ordered every single item on the menu. How fun is that?! And yes, that was Kathie Jenkins from St. Paul Pioneer Press at the next table–eating up our every word, along with her fair share of plates.
The Food:
There are 11 savory dishes and 3 desserts on the menu and that is it. I honestly liked every single one and have no idea what I would skip when I go back. I will say that the pastured lamb crepinette with squash confit, olives and quince got my attention. I also loved the sous vide beef shin with compressed figs, walnuts and horseradish. The potato gnocchi with white beans, guanciale and robiola cheese now ranks up there with my favorites from Bar La Grassa and D’amico Kitchen. That good. The dish everyone is talking about is the scrambled eggs with pickled pig’s feet and truffles. I way did not plan to like this dish which unfortunately brought to mind my childhood memory of the freaky science project in our refrigerator that was my mother’s jar of pickled pig’s feet. I would check it constantly and was always completely shocked when the level of the jar would go down. Well, I have to admit–I liked it–and in fact, it was Jack’s favorite dish.
The Shizz:
Okay, so I’m not really that big of a dessert guy, but I loved the bitter almond cake with vanilla ice cream and brown butter honey–simple, yet stunning. I wanted to order another one. And the other big surprise–the chicken–who knew that roasted chicken with ricotta pain purdu, cipollini onion and golden turnips could be otherworldly. Heaven on a plate! Or, in this case, in Minneapolis just off Lyndale at 34th and Bryant.
The care and attention Doug Flicker pays to the minutest detail make each dish a stunner. And the portion size keeps you focused on tasting the nuances rather than mindlessly eating – is that what he had in mind?
The Unexpected:
Shared Gratuity–Piccolo believes that everyone contributes to the dining experience, therefore tips are shared with the entire staff. The service was attentive and it was fun to see some of the faces of the Auriga days again.
Note that this is a “bites” kind of place, so don’t starve and work out and then show up here looking for a pile o’ pasta. At Piccolo the trick is to take a deep breath, let expectations and tensions go, order some wine, order some plates and then order some more. Give yourself over to the tastes and textures of some of the best food going. We ordered the entire menu, 2 bottles of wine and a bottle of champagne for four for $250. This is a true culinary experience at a very affordable price. It was almost a surprise to walk out the door and realize we were still in Minneapolis — we were so transported by the delicious treasures and the great experience orchestrated by Flicker and Co.
Thank you Mr. Flicker for a new favorite place to go.
