The Scene
Sea Change is the new seafood emporium run under the watchful eye of the 2009 James Beard winning executive chef Tim McKee of La Belle Vie fame. Tim is a classic over-achiever and also runs these brilliant Twin Cities restaurants: Solera, Barrio and Smalley’s in Stillwater.
Sea Change is the reincarnation of Cue at the Guthrie. It is a large space, but entering it is like scuba diving with an expert off the Caribbean coast; soothing greens and blues, cool and warm tones, beautiful lighting, and a classic but modern design sensibility.
The Food
The core menu is designed around the principals of sustainable seafood. Chef McKee uses only the freshest fish, shellfish and other sustainable meats and produce to be the stars of his exquisite offerings.
So what to order?
I love everything — so that makes it easy. Don’t miss the grilled octopus with Spanish peppers. Or the steamed mussels in green curry. Oh, the striped bass with oxtails is out of this world and is not to be missed. Wait, don’t pass up the scallops with sweet corn and chorizo — it’s a winner. On the “Not Fish” side of life, my favorite that I’ve tried so far, I have to admit, I haven’t managed the entire menu yet (Tim, stop making the scallops so fantastic, I’m having trouble moving on!), is the braised short ribs. I’m never making them myself again. And then there is the duck. Sure, when I come to Sea Change I want to eat seafood, but the duck with lentils? Amazing. As I write this, all I can think of is how can I squeeze this onto my calendar again this week — maybe even today?!!
The Wine
Wine list by La Belle Vie’s Bill Summerville. I rest my case. Offerings of Spanish cava, lots of French, Italian and Austrian wines with a few Oregon wines for us Northwest afficianados. Ten offerings are by the glass.
The Team
Tim McKee, executive chef, with the help of Erik Anderson, Jim Christiansen in the kitchen; Bill Summerville on the wine, and the charming Loren Zinter at front of house. It’s a win win squared.
The Shizz
The Shizz is definitely the raw bar. Its huge and has a lot of action if you like watching the kitchen work it out. I like to belly up here with my wife and some friends and make a night of it.
So, what to eat?
“¢ Spot prawns with avocado, chili and orange
“¢ Yellow fin tuna poke with sesame and seaweed
“¢ Scallops in citrus, oregano and cucumber
“¢ Raw oysters with assorted sauces — tres reasonable at ½ dozen for $15.
The Unexpected
Come after 7:30 to have the best dining experience. The evening’s theater goers will be on their way to their seats. There are regular celebrity sightings and it’s fun to see the Guthrie actors enjoying a cocktail after the show.
Lunch
The fish and chips are on my “you’ve gotta try these, they are rocking” unofficial review from friends. Hum, do I still have time for lunch?
Hours (Dinner from 5 p.m. daily. Lunch from 11:30am-2pm Tuesday – Sunday)
Monday — Thursday 5-10
Friday — Saturday 5-11
Sunday – 5-9
